Jamaïque : Une Folle Aventure

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Le guide ultime de ce pays passionnant, provocateur, coloré, imprévisible, parfois carrément effrayant.

Jamaica. Exciting, provocative, colorful, unpredictable, and sometimes downright scary. If you habitually avoid the unexpected and seek the sanctuary of American food chains and a buttoned-down culture, then you’re better off in Florida. But if you live for adventure and spicy foods, this could become your favorite tropical getaway.

Jamaica: A Crazy Adventure - jamaica travel guide

Jamaica’s rich history runs the gamut from pirates to plantations, from colonialism and slave revolts to proud independence. Today, the tropical island has become the land of relaxation, reggae and Rasta culture. Tourism now accounts for 45% of Jamaica’s (reported) foreign income, and I can see why. Thanks to the island’s warm, crystal blue water, teeming fish and gorgeous reefs, it is the perfect place to learn how to scuba dive or spend a relaxing day snorkeling. The adventurous can also go 4×4 off-roading through the jungle, take a river rafting trip to spot crocodiles, or hike to a secluded waterfall. If you can dream it up, you can do it here. From water skiing to Sea-Dooing to river tubing and horseback riding; it’s all available in Jamaica.

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The minimum wage is only about $200 per month for full-time work, making it one of the poorest countries in the Caribbean. You might never notice the poverty if, like most vacationers, you travel directly from the airport to your hotel along the northern roads from Montego Bay to Ochos Rios, as this strip is lined with beautifully manicured golf courses and giant international-style resorts.

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If you want to see the real Jamaica, you can rent a SUV (and make sure it has a spare tire, as the roads are filled with tire-popping potholes) at the airport and take a drive through the tropical mountains of central Jamaica, or tour the densely urbanized Kingston area, the resort-cluttered western coast, or the less-traveled lower portion of the island. Be careful, though, when driving at night, as goats and cattle roam not only the fields but also most of the roads, and it’s not uncommon to see animals get hit.

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Planning a route in Jamaica is not a question of plugging point A and point B into Google Maps since what looks like a major road on a map is sometimes just a dirt track or, thanks to hurricane damage, doesn’t exist at all. Talk to the staff at your hotel before plotting out your journey.

Along the way, be sure to stop at some of the many roadside produce stands. The fruit they offer is wonderfully fresh and fragrant; there’s a world of difference in the flavour of the bananas and papayas at the supermarket back home and the ones you’ll be lucky enough to try here. Unless you’re a fan of food poisoning, avoid drinking tap water or eating meat and dairy in Jamaica. The jerk chicken or goat sold by roadside vendors is spicy, served with bread, and rolled up in foil, but can result in your vacation being spent in the bathroom, if you’re unlucky.

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The Jamaican attitude is the epitome of the laid-back island lifestyle. Bob Marley and reggae rules, while the Rastafarian religion promotes smoking ganja for spiritual purposes.

A wise Jamaican told me the wistful story of a village fisherman who was visited one day by a stranger. The stranger told him that he could help him expand his business, and that in five years he could have ten boats, and in ten years he could sell his business and retire. He would have to work long and hard to build his fishing business into this empire, but its fruits would be plentiful. The fisherman responded simply, “Why would I want to do that, mon? I fish when I want to, sit around all day, smoke ganja and laugh with my friends. I already feel like I’m retired!”

If you’re looking for gorgeous beaches, this may not be the best destination for you, depending on where you’re staying. Jamaica has a culture of littering, and most of the beaches have so much litter that you almost can’t see the sand. No, really.

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As you may have heard, for all its beauty and sensual pleasures, Jamaica is not the safest spot in the Caraïbes. There are more than 1600 murders per year here, for a population of only 2.9 million. And, according to Amnesty International, more people are killed by police here (per capita) than anywhere else. Although marijuana and cocaine (two major Jamaican exports) are illegal, a great many people you meet in passing are eager to hook you up with your drug of choice. Leave your valuables at home because a quick peruse through TripAdvisor will enlighten you to just how many upscale hotel room robberies happen, and how vulnerable your in-room safe is to theft via master-key.

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While most people are friendly and welcoming, it’s still advisable not to wander too far off the beaten path. It’s not unheard of for tourists to be shot at when they stumble upon a hidden marijuana crop. Growers are in a state of constant warfare with local authorities and the U.S. DEA, which operates here as well. We’re anything but shrinking violets, but we got a bit spooked after taking a detour in our rental car down a red dirt road and finding ourselves amid fields of marijuana bordering mansions the likes of which you’d be hard-pressed to match in Palm Beach or Beverly Hills.

Despite all the craziness that is Jamaica, it still tops many tourists’ lists for tropical vacation getaways. That’s thanks in part to the famously hip and exclusive group of Island Outpost resorts. Island Outpost owner Chris Blackwell used to own Island Records (Bob Marley, U2, The Cranberries, etc.), but sold the label to devote his attention to his resorts, which have become a magnet for well-heeled pop prodigies.

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Island Outpost resorts are a draw for the well-heeled

Other Essential Jamaican Adventures

While traveling in Jamaica, there are a few adventures that you should try not to miss.

A must-do adventure is the fascinating Jeep Safari Tour. Venture behind waterfalls and into swimming holes so secluded you can only reach them via the tour’s off-roading Range Rover. Lunch is provided, but make sure to request a plant-based meal in advance. You’ll also get to see 18th century ruins of a plantation that was destroyed during the famous slave rebellions.

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One of the most popular attractions in the Ochos Rios area is Dunn’s River Falls. For an awesome experience, book a guide and you’ll be able to climb up the 600 feet of cascading waters. It’s not only a place for challenge, but extraordinary beauty. At the top of the falls, you’ll find a small village, food and shopping.

Across the street from Dunn’s River Falls is Dolphin Cove. It is here that you can touch, swim with, or even kiss dolphins. There is also a hair braiding booth and a beach grill. Feel free to interact with the cove’s remarkably friendly birds and explore their jungle haunts. It’s a great place to spend the day, or a couple of hours in nature.

If you enjoy Reggae music, don’t miss the Zion Bus Line Tour, complete with dreadlocked driver. This adventure will take you to the birth and final resting place of Bob Marley in the village of Nine Miles, as your guide shares stories about the area and how young Bob grew up.

If you like cycling, then check out the Blue Mountain Bicycle Tour, and take a ride through lush tropical rainforest and coffee plantations. Catch the trails on horseback with Chukka Cove Adventure Tours. Bring your bathing suit, sun block, and a towel and be prepared to ride your horses in the ocean. The ride is three hours and you’ll have the time of your life–we promise!

Good-to-know: Chikungunya fever (commonly known as Chik V) is a mosquito-borne virus on the rise throughout much of the Caribbean, including Jamaica. Though the effects are not deadly (fever, rash, joint soreness), they aren’t pleasant. Most hotel rooms should have mosquito nets, but not all do. So bring your own mosquito repellant, and apply liberally!

Next up: Reviews of Island Outpost’s three resorts, a scary situation, and the location where 007 was created.

James Bond is Alive at Goldeneye Resort in Jamaica

On a sandy hillock overlooking Jamaica’s northern coast, is a single-story white bungalow. Through its wide open windows you can feel the warm Caribbean breeze and hear the crystal blue water lapping at the shore. It is this 15-acre waterfront property now named ‘Goldeneye’, that inspired Ian Fleming to create his famous James Bond character.

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Goldeneye Resort Review, Hip Hotel Jamaica

Goldeneye is nothing if not inspiring. Its secluded beaches and private villas make you feel as though you’ve stumbled upon your own private paradise. No one could possibly dampen the blissful buzz that is created by the tropical greenery, plush surroundings, incredible cuisine and friendly people.

Although the property now has several villa areas, you can also opt to bring friends and stay in the “Fleming Villa“, the now-plush white bungalow where Ian Fleming wrote all thirteen James Bond novels–and where Sting wrote ‘Every Breath You Take’.

It’s surrounded by dense tropical vegetation and is completely private, which is perhaps part of the reason it has become a favorite of the likes of Johnny Depp, Jim Carrey, Harrison Ford, and Pierce Brosnan, not to mention supermodels Cindy Crawford, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington and Naomi Campbell.

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It wasn’t always this way, though. In 1946, the consummate theatrical personality of his time, Noel Coward, was the first paying guest to stay at the property. He described it as being “a perfectly ghastly house, no hot water, pictures of snakes plastered all over the bedroom wall.” He referred to the place as “Golden eye, nose and throat”, but despite that called his stay “the happiest two months I ever spent.” Soon after, he built his own house just 10 miles away.

In the years since, Goldeneye has seen many of the most talented people of our time pass through its gates. Evelyn Waugh and Lucien Freud were frequent guests of Fleming’s wife Ann Rothermere; Donald Sutherland, Michael Caine, Katherine Hepburn, Errol Flynn, Sir Lawrence Olivier, Cecil Beaton, Sir John Gielgud, Mary Martin, and many other celebrities were all guests while the Flemings owned the property.

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Goldeneye Resort Review, Hip Hotel Jamaica

The day Truman Capote visited, Fleming exclaimed, “Can you imagine a more incongruous playmate for me?” British Prime Minister Sir Anthony Eden chilled here for three weeks, in the wake of the Suez crisis. He later wrote to Fleming, “I do not think that there is any other place anywhere that could have given me the rest I have to have. The bathing, the beach, the seclusion, the size of the grounds were all just perfect to enjoy and be concealed.”

Twelve years after Fleming’s death, Island Records founder Chris Blackwell talked Bob Marley into buying the property. “But then he got cold feet, said it was too posh, so the next year, when I was flush again, I bought it myself. The original for sale document said Bob Marley and we crossed that out and wrote in Chris Blackwell,” says Chris. It was Ian Fleming who recommended Chris for the job of location scout for the first James Bond movie, Dr. No in 1961, giving him his first job in the entertainment industry.

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Goldeneye Resort Review, Hip Hotel Jamaica

Island Records’ artist roster included U2, Bob Marley, Melissa Etheridge, Steve Winwood, Roxy Music, Robert Palmer, Grace Jones, and the Cranberries. Chris sold the label in 1989 to focus on his growing Island Outpost resort business, but the rock-star ethos is evident in all the properties, especially Goldeneye.

With outdoor showers, private media rooms stocked with James Bond boxed sets, and more premium booze than you could drink in ten vacations, each grouping of villas is the ultimate in tasteful hedonism.

Goldeneye’s main beach so private that we saw not another soul during our entire stay (and we visited the beach often). Its soft white sand and warm crystal waters are simply incomparable. If you’ve ever dreamt of the perfect beach-absolute privacy and serenity-but thought that it couldn’t exist in the real world, think again.

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Goldeneye Resort Review, Hip Hotel Jamaica

If the main beach is private, the villa areas are even more so. We stayed in our own private, gated area comprised of five cabanas and several large patio areas. Through the open doors and windows of each cabana is a breathtaking view of a private lagoon and sandy white beach. We could sleep in any of three bedrooms, raid our fully stocked kitchen, or hang out in the privacy of our posh media room / lounge villa, complete with big-screen TV and DVDs. We also had the choice of several inviting indoor and outdoor tubs and showers, stocked with locally-made fruit- and coconut-scented amenities.

Goldeneye Resort Review, Hip Hotel Jamaica

Villa areas are connected by a series of narrow stone walkways, lush with tropical vegetation. They’ll also lead you to the white dining hut and patio, where the dining experience is as much like having a private chef as you’re likely to experience outside a rock star’s mansion or a prime minister’s official residence. The food is wonderfully fresh and tasty-and completely customisable, no matter what your dietary habits.

The dining patio has a fully stocked bar hut which is manned by a friendly bartender, who makes amazing fruity liquor concoctions, and who sports a silver, marijuana-leaf necklace. Although dinners are scheduled around the guests so that you will likely have the entire patio to yourself, it is also a delicious treat to have a white-linen table set up in the privacy of your villa area.

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Goldeneye Resort Review, Hip Hotel Jamaica

The food is as plentiful as it is delicious, and I found myself slipping the occasional scrap of meat to Stripey, and adorable though skinny, tabby kitten I bonded with during our stay at Goldeneye. Apparently, many celebrities have also taken a shine to Stripey and one or two have come close to kidnapping her and taking her home with them. I also had fun hurrying the two resident hens down the walkways–they were so amusingly un-Jamaican in their offended ill-humor.

If, while on vacation, you’ve ever felt you could spend all day in your room, you’ll surely feel it here. However, we strongly suggest that, as often as often as you can drag yourself away, you leave your villa sanctuary and explore all that Goldeneye has to offer, such as their selection of water sports and activities.

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Goldeneye Resort Review, Hip Hotel Jamaica

Simeon and Clifton will be happy to teach you how to sail or windsurf, or take you on a trip to any of the area’s many attractions. Simeon was kind enough to take us Sea-Dooing along the coast. The water in Jamaica is always perfectly warm, no matter how far you venture from shore.

As we jetted past several giant resorts and gazed at their crowded beaches from afar, we couldn’t help thinking how lucky we were to be guests at a fantasy get-away like Goldeneye.

The tropical greenery is balm to the chapped, northern soul, the plush surroundings are in perfect taste, the food is wonderful and the staff are friendly and accommodating. What else is there to say? It’s the kind of place 007 would have chosen for a little R&R.

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Next up: Reviews of Island Outpost’s The Caves and the sometimes-scary Jake’s.

Jake’s is a Little Scary

If you seek a diversion from the tourist mainstream, you may want to escape the Americanized northern shore of Jamaica and immerse yourself in the bohemian feast of color (and culture) that is Jake’s — the Caribbean’s most Instagrammable resort.

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Jake’s is a funky and eccentric getaway located in a secluded little fishing village called Treasure Beach, a half-day’s drive from both the Montego and Kingston airports. The southern side of the island is notably less tropical than the touristy northern coast, with lush greenery being replaced by rolling hills and close-cropped farmland. The edgy ambiance and focus on adventure at Jake’s has enticed the occasional celebrity guest–Joan Osborne, Lennox Lewis, and U2’s Adam Clayton–as well as photo teams from numerous fashion magazines.

Jake’s offers travelers the chance to experience laid-back seaside life in small, Casbah-style villas that are reminiscent of Morocco. Don’t expect your villa to be decked out with luxuries. Jake’s is all about the bohemian beachcomber lifestyle, and for that reason you won’t find a TV–or even a telephone–in your room. What you will find is Aveda shampoo, a CD player (bring your own discs), and an abundance of inspiration.

The complete lack of a gate or any sort of security (and no phone or safe in the room) — especially since all the surrounding houses have bars on their windows and barbed-wire fences — made us a bit nervous. That, coupled with the fact that waves hitting the rocks at what seems like 1000 decibels, and the 100+ feet between each villa, ensure that you not only have complete privacy, but also that nobody would hear us if we screamed. We weren’t oblivious to the abject poverty that surrounds Jake’s, and the reality that the locals see relatively wealthy tourists coming and going from Jake’s. What that added up to, we don’t know, and I doubt anyone local would talk about it, but I did find reports of robberies at Jake’s by digging around on the Interwebs.

From the rooftop patios on the gorgeous honeymoon suites, to walls inset with colored bottles, beads and conch shells, to the outdoor bathrooms with doors of tightly-tied twigs, this is one place you won’t soon (or ever) forget.

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Jason Henzell, the owner, is legendary in these parts. During our stay, he was busy painting the nearby school–one of many local charity projects he has in the works. To say that he is highly regarded by both his colleagues and the locals would be an understatement. Jason was born on the island to father, Perry, who directed The Harder They Come, and mother, Sally, a former set-designer who designed most of the suites at Jake’s. The entertainment industry connections and lifestyle are evident in the unique look and feel of Jake’s. Sally Henzell originally bought the land, planning to make a vacation villa for family friends.

“My mother started Jake’s as a restaurant as there was nowhere to eat and then people started asking for rooms. My mother and I both share a love for Treasure Beach as my grandfather built a beach house, Treasure Cot, in 1941. [Treasure Cot was rented to Alex Haley to write Roots.] It’s where we spend family holidays,” says Jason.

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Seeing the potential, Jason left banking to become a partner in the resort. He introduced a youthful, upbeat attitude by starting a tradition of bonfires and moonlight parties with appearances by local reggae bands.

“People see it as a melting pot for visitors and locals.”

Since then, Jake’s (named after a parrot of local renown) has blossomed to fifteen villas, but Jason assured us that he intends to keep it small, so as to not lose the authentic Jamaican feel of the place.

Fresh from visiting other resorts on the island, we were surprised to see just how integrated Jake’s is with the local area.

Most island resorts try hard to wall themselves off from the locals, but walking to the honeymoon suites from the check-in area at Jake’s, we heard a baby crying and noticed a local Jamaican mother and her children on the porch of their house right next to the pathway. If you’re charmed by the ambiance of colorful laundry dangling from the clothes line each time you pass, then Jake’s is your kind of place.

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For many, a big part of the attraction of Jake’s is the opportunity to interact with locals at ‘Jack Sprat’ (where you can get great pizza and local Red Stripe beer) and get to know the local community. However, this opportunity also means that your stay will lack the security of fencing and a guarded gate, features of most upscale homes in the area and something which many travelers treat as de rigueur when holidaying in Jamaica. However, if you’re an adventure (or culture) – seeking traveler unphased by backpacking trips through Europe or Asia, then Jake’s may be your ideal Caribbean getaway.

If the lack of TV leaves you at loose ends (poor soul!), just track down Jason and have him arrange one of the enticing adventures that are available-river tours, bike trips, manatee watching and others. Oh, and be sure to bring a book or two, because there are few pleasures to match reading on the roof or porch of a honeymoon suite at Jake’s while the waves crash against the rocks below.

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The food at Jake’s is simple but tasty, with a focus on seafood and American comfort foods such as pancakes and pasta. The cost of meals is not included with the room as it is at most other Island Outpost properties, but dining is quite inexpensive and is definitely the best you’ll find in the area. Be sure to order a fruit punch or an alcoholic concoction from Duggie, who mans the bar (and who may also have posted the sign that asks, “Why drink and drive when you can smoke and fly?”). Sip it slowly and watch the dolphins play and the sun set over the sea, as we did, one splendid evening at Jake’s.

Other notes:

– The official story is that Jake’s is after a famous parrot, however, in the local Jamaican dialect, “Jake” is another way of saying “white guy”.

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– Stay away from the run-down three-bedroom cottage. The Honeymoon Suites (“Octopussy 1, 2 & 3”) are the nicest accommodations on the property.

– There is an archaic PC in the main building with an incredibly slow Internet connection from which you can check your email.

– The beach is covered with small (and some not-so-small) holes from which crabs continuously scurry to and from, and the pool is not the cleanest ever–so, if you’re looking for swimming, this is something to note. And if you come across a hustler on the beach, just tell him “Cho’ mon’. Don’ harrass da touris'”

Next up: Getting lost in The Caves.

Se Perdre dans les Grottes

Lorsque Harrison Ford, Scarlett Johansson, Bono et les photographes de maillots de bain de Sports Illustrated visitent la Jamaïque, ils se rendent en Jamaïque. Les Grottes. Au-delà du front de mer pavé de touristes de Negril, à l'extrémité sud pittoresque de la longue étendue de sable et de mer de la station balnéaire, se trouve l'une des escapades les plus romantiques des Caraïbes… Pensez au luxe décontracté avec un spa sur place et une cuisine délicieuse à chaque fois. tu as faim. Le bruit de l'océan depuis votre lit. Confidentialité.

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Toujours à portée de tous les complexes hôteliers des snowbirds (mais suffisamment éloignés pour que vous ne le remarquiez peut-être pas), The Caves offre un accès facile à toute la vie nocturne et aux commodités qui accompagnent les géants de l'industrie comme les sandales, les plages et l'hédonisme (auquel vous pouvez demander un pass journalier gratuit), mais aucune sensation de forfait. En fait, vous remarquerez rarement d’autres vacanciers lors de votre visite aux Caves. Cela est dû en partie au fait que le complexe ne compte que dix villas, et en partie à l'aménagement ingénieux du complexe, qui vous permet de vous sentir complètement en sécurité, isolé et détendu, peu importe où vous vous trouvez sur le terrain.

Si vous recherchez un luxe opulent et des draps Frette, ce n'est pas l'endroit pour vous. Mais si vous recherchez un luxe décontracté et beaucoup de charme, vous avez trouvé votre paradis !

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Les Caves sont une retraite vraiment unique. Il s'étend sur dix hectares de jungle tropicale et de falaises en bord de mer, avec des passerelles en pierre menant les clients à travers une verdure luxuriante jusqu'à certaines des grottes marines les plus époustouflantes des Caraïbes. Ces grottes spectaculaires ont été creusées par des éons de vagues se brisant contre la roche volcanique et permettent désormais aux visiteurs de sauter à travers des trous béants dans le sol directement dans la mer cristalline trente pieds plus bas.

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Comme vous pouvez l’imaginer, cela permet également de nager, de faire de la plongée en apnée et de la plongée sous-marine. Nous vous suggérons de prendre du matériel de plongée en apnée et de vous lancer dans une petite expédition à travers « Blow Hole », une grande grotte située sous le complexe. Si vous avez de la chance, vous serez rejoint par les dauphins, les tortues de mer ou les poissons perroquets qui fréquentent les récifs des environs.

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Des marches et des plates-formes sont creusées dans les falaises en nid d'abeilles, et nous nous sommes demandé pourquoi jusqu'à ce que nous nous arrêtions au Rick's Cafe, un célèbre lieu de nuit et restaurant qui se trouve justement à côté. Là-bas, nous avons observé les habitants (et quelques touristes occasionnels) sauter dans la mer depuis des plates-formes de 50 pieds. De retour aux Caves, mon partenaire de voyage a eu l'audace de se catapulter dans l'eau de 20 pieds de profondeur depuis la plate-forme la plus haute du complexe (environ 50 pieds) ; Moi, étant de nature un peu plus prudente, j'ai sauté du rebord de 30 pieds. Le parachutisme, je peux le dire par expérience, est moins pénible. Mais ces falaises et grottes uniques ne sont qu’une partie de ce qui rend cette station si spéciale.

Il n'y a pas deux cabines identiques dans ce complexe intrigant, mais toutes conservent une atmosphère jamaïcaine à la fois luxueuse et rustique.

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Chaque meuble en bois ou en gros bambou fabriqué sur mesure est peint à la main dans des teintes insulaires audacieuses. Les peintures à l'extérieur des chaumières donnent un indice sur leurs noms (par exemple, il y a des dauphins sur l'unité « Blue Dolphin » et des oiseaux sur « Bird's Nest »).

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L'inspiration de cette approche picturale du design devient claire lorsque vous rencontrez les propriétaires du complexe, Betram et Greer Ann Saulter, un couple rastafari qui se trouvent tous deux être des artistes talentueux ainsi que des entrepreneurs à succès. Ils ont déménagé à Negril pour échapper au bruit et à l'agitation de la vie urbaine de Kingston. Lorsqu’ils ont acheté le terrain en 1990, il ne s’agissait que de quelques hectares de jungle côtière remplie de raisiniers de mer, d’amandiers et de bananiers. Le seul signe de civilisation visible depuis la propriété était le phare perché sur une falaise à l’extrémité sud de l’île. La région était si sous-développée qu'ils ont dû scolariser leurs enfants à la maison, car il n'y avait pas d'école (et encore moins d'hôtels ou de magasins) dans la région.

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Les Caves sont nés de leur amitié avec Le Fondateur d'Island Records, Chris Blackwell (qui a contribué au lancement des carrières de Bob Marley, U2, The Cranberries et Steve Winwood). Au moment de leur rencontre, chris Ouvrait un certain nombre de magasins uniques et funky stations balnéaires de luxe sous le nom de « Island Outpost ». [Il a depuis vendu Island Records et se concentre désormais uniquement sur les stations balnéaires d'Island Outpost.] Encouragés par Chris et résignés face à l'inévitabilité que Negril devienne une station balnéaire, ils ont décidé de créer leur version de l'escapade ultime.

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Betram a conçu les cabanes et le mobilier tandis que Greer Ann a imaginé les intérieurs. Les couleurs vives abondent et le luxe discret et de bon goût est évident dans chaque détail. Stardust est la suite la plus privée et dispose d'une mini-cuisine et d'un balcon avec une vue fantastique sur l'océan. Moon Shadow dispose de deux chambres, d'une vue sur l'océan et constitue un excellent choix si vous voyagez avec un autre couple ou une autre famille.Dans les chambres, vous trouverez une collection de la meilleure musique de l'île à diffuser en stéréo. Nous avons adoré les CD « Island Outpost » [volumes 1 à 4] pour leur ambiance insulaire détendue et inspirée du reggae. Vous pouvez les récupérer au moment du départ pour environ 20 $ et ramener à la maison le sentiment de l'île.

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Les murs en pierre blanche et les escaliers qui gravent la surface des falaises se prêtent parfaitement aux terrasses où les clients peuvent bronzer (souvent seins nus) en semi-isolement.

La nourriture au Caves est une délicieuse cuisine insulaire. Des délicieux plats à base de plantes (pour ceux d'entre nous qui sont écologiques, éthiques ou soucieux de leur santé), au homard frais grillé avec sauce au beurre à l'ail, en passant par le poulet jerk parfaitement assaisonné et juteux, vous ne serez pas déçu. Les Caves sont fiers de répondre à vos besoins spécifiques et, conformément à cette tradition, vous êtes libre de demander au chef de préparer pratiquement tous les repas auxquels vous pouvez penser. Le petit-déjeuner commence par un plat de fruits frais de l'île, comme de délicieuses papayes, des bananes (vous n'avez jamais goûté une banane comme celle-ci !) et de l'ananas. Vous pouvez ensuite commander ce qui vous convient – ​​si vous pouvez l'imaginer, tu l'as eu.

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Une chose à ne pas manquer est un dîner privé aux chandelles dans une grotte à côté du « Blow Hole ». C'est l'ultime dîner fantastique – je vous garantis que vous ne pouvez pas surpasser cela pour une pure romance. Écoutez les vagues clapoter légèrement sur les rochers et admirez le romantisme de la lumière d'innombrables bougies dansant sur les parois intérieures de la grotte qui vous entoure, tandis que votre serveur personnel vous sert un menu de cinq plats au choix. Cela ne nous a pas surpris que ce soit un endroit populaire pour les demandes en mariage ! Le sentiment de « juste nous deux » s’incarne ici comme nulle part ailleurs. Assurez-vous de réserver longtemps à l'avance, de préférence au moment de réserver votre visite.

Candle-lit dinner inside the grotto cave
Dîner aux chandelles dans la grotte

Le complexe est orienté plein ouest et les couchers de soleil sont à couper le souffle dans des tons profonds de rose, d'orange et de violet. La nuit, les marches à flanc de falaise mènent à une pièce creusée dans la roche volcanique qui abrite un grand jacuzzi. Ici, vous pouvez profiter d'un bain moussant privé et ouvrir les très grands volets pour révéler la mer au clair de lune. Après votre expérience du jacuzzi, vous pourrez vous diriger vers l'un des deux espaces de restauration et de détente situés au sommet et prendre une collation ou l'une des boissons « Cliff Hanger » emblématiques du complexe. La nourriture et les boissons sont disponibles à toute heure de la nuit et les desserts sont toujours laissés de côté pour ceux qui ont la dent sucrée persistante.

Jamaica: A Crazy Adventure - the caves resort negril jamaica
Écoutez l'océan depuis le spa

Les Caves offrent également un certain nombre de cures thermales, joué dans une petite cabane bleue avec vue sur la mer. Leurs soins Aveda Spa vont des enveloppements corporels aux massages en passant par la réflexologie plantaire. Si vous recherchez des passe-temps plus actifs, The Caves peut organiser un certificat de plongée sous-marine (300 $ US), la location de motos, l'équitation, le tubing sur la rivière et bien plus encore. Demandez Pierre, le directeur aimable et toujours serviable, qui a rendu notre visite encore plus spéciale en s'assurant que tous nos besoins étaient pris en charge. Lors de notre dernière nuit, il nous a même emmenés dans un club de musique live appelé « Roots Bamboo », où nous avons pataugé dans l'eau chaude et dansé sur la plage au rythme de la musique reggae live.

Les Caves n'acceptent pas les enfants de moins de 16 ans, mais ils acceptent de nombreuses célébrités (dont Harrison Ford et Naomi Campbell, tous deux fans fidèles du groupe Island Outpost), mais s'attendent à ce que tout le monde les traite comme n'importe quel autre invité. Ce qui n'est que justice : après tout, ne sommes-nous pas tous venus ici pour être traités comme des VIP ?

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Hilary Rowland

Écrivaine, artiste et designer depuis qu'elle est assez jeune pour mettre un crayon sur papier, Hilaire elle-même a appris le code et created Urbanette when she was a teenager. Currently, she lives in Monte Carlo, but spent the past decade living in NYC, still considers herself a New Yorker, and visits regularly. She's always traveling, looking for hot new topics, destinations, and life hacks to bring to Urbanette readers.

Reader Discussion: 165 Comments

  1. Not even sure what this reviews was for, because for more than half of the article it talked about how scary Jamaica is despite of its “beauty”– in which I failed to see because it all sounded so unsafe instead of fun. It’s like going on a vacation there will lead me to tell my family that I might get home dead and that they have to find a way to get my body boarded on the next flght. But seriously, I appreciate that you want to warn tourists, but it seems like a very complicated vacation spot.

    Reply
    • Did you even read through it all? Jamaica is actually a great place but yeah, not 100% safe for people who can’t follow safe tracks.

      Reply
  2. Went to Jamaica with a couple of friends last year and it’s crazy how we really can’t just randomly plan our activities. It would be great if you know someone there or that you find a good friend to tell you where to go.

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    • That’s the term I was looking for, raw and beautiful. Like a place that isn’t touched by technology and all its craziness!

      Reply
  3. I visited The Caves with hubby and it was a unique and magnificent travel experience. Our villa was on the cliff’s edge providing a very great view! We were also able to experience candle-lit dinner inside the grotto cave and it was very romantic. If given the opportunity, we’d like to pay a visit again… this time I’m definitely trying the “Blue Hole” experience and the spa treatments, you described these activities perfectly enticing 🙂

    Reply
  4. You never fail to capture wonderful photos, they really make your travel articles very, very appealing! I would like to get lost in the caves! I’m excited to experience candle-lit dinner inside the grotto cave 🙂

    Starting to plan now…

    Reply
  5. I've always wanted to go to Jamaica, but it's definitely one of those places I'm waiting to go to with a large group, preferably with dudes. It seems thrilling and gorgeous and like it'd be over my head if I went alone all at the same time.

    Reply
  6. I always heard that to experience the real "Jamaica' you have to travel outside the resorts. Which is mostly dangerous. I'm surprised that they're beaches are dirty, I heard they were beautiful. I would still like to visit though. But I'm not as adventurous as you Hilary lol I probably wouldn't stray too far from the hotel at the resort.

    Reply

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