My Viking Cruise: Hanging in the Mediterranean

#HilaryRowland

Join me as I travel to Venice, Croatia and Corfu on a Viking Cruise of the Mediterranean Sea.

If you caught my last article, you know all about the Viking Cruise that I’m currently on. If you missed it, you can check it out here.

Venice
Venice

On our first night, shortly after getting settled in our stateroom (that’s what they call the rooms on a cruise ship) and having a room service meal on our balcony, we walked into town and explored the streets of Venice. The city has a lovely feel in the evening, particularly when you gaze upward through the quaint narrow walkways and see the stars twinkling above you.

Our stateroom, on our first night (before we cluttered it up)
Our stateroom, on our first night (before we cluttered it up)

After our two-hour stroll, we arrived back on the boat to find some of our fellow shipmates partying to a great band in the Torshavn lounge, while others were relaxing by the bar in the Explorer’s Lounge, listening to a wonderful pianist.

viking-cruise-mediterranea-sean3

The following morning, we got shuttled into town with about 50 other passengers, and our tour took us through some of the more touristy areas of Venice. We used our wireless headsets to hear the guide, which was convenient, since we opted to duck into the shade as often as possible.

During the tour, I learned that Venice was built on top of 117 small, marsh-like islands. So every time you cross a bridge in Venice, you’re stepping onto another island. Amazingly, the building of Venice are held up using wood. Because there wasn’t any oxygen in the thick muck that Venice is built on, when they stuck trees into it they petrified and became very strong. The buildings are mostly built using clay bricks and timber, and were designed to be flexible as the ground shifted. So while the buildings may lean, they will never fall. Venice was the first republic in Europe (France was the second, after the French Revolution).

Lunch at Do Leoni, in Venice
Lunch at Do Leoni, in Venice

After the tour, we treated ourselves to lunch at a Relais & Chateaux restaurant right on the water, called Do Leoni. Finding the Viking water taxi after lunch was simple, as there were Viking reps in red all over the place. When we got back to the Viking Sea ship, we went to the Explorer’s Lounge on the front upper deck (one of the many lounges, with live classical music, to choose from) and ordered a Bergen’s Kaffe.

In the following days we visited Split and Dubrovnik, in Croatia. I had no idea what to expect when we arrived in Croatia. When we woke and pulled back the drapes to our private balcony, I was shocked by the incredible beauty of the town and surrounding mountains. The towns are filled with history and, although crowded with tourists, were super charming.

Swimming in Croatia
Swimming in Croatia

We ducked away from the crowds and found a few off-path nooks (usually through a small tunnel in the side of a stone city wall) where we could hang out on the side of a rocky cliff and get a drink, lunch, and swim in the crystal-blue waters.

The view from a very cool bar and restaurant in Dubrovnik called 360
The view from a very cool bar and restaurant in Dubrovnik called 360

There are a lot of great restaurants to try out in Split and Dubrovnik. We especially loved one in Split called O’Zlata (which means “of gold” in Croatian), which is housed in what was the 15thC royal residence of Roman emperor Diocletian. We sat in the courtyard, but the interior is equally as charming and they had lots of healthy vegan options made from fresh local ingredients, including smoothies and fresh squeezed juices. If you’re staying overnight in Dubrovnik, make sure to have dinner at 360 Restaurant, which is super romantic and has incredible –you guessed it– 360-degree views.

Getting some fresh juice in Dubrovnik, Croatia
Getting some fresh juice at a stand in Dubrovnik, Croatia

Yesterday we stopped in Corfu, Greece. I was expecting the white buildings I’ve seen in photos of islands like Mykonos, but the architecture in Corfu reminded me of the Caribbean and wasn’t at all what I expected. All of the main streets in the downtown area were packed with tourist stalls selling cheap jewelry, sun hats and trinkets. It felt like a shopping maze reminiscent of Marrakesh’s souks.

Me, in the middle of Corfu's shopping maze...
Me, in the middle of Corfu’s shopping maze…

I also wasn’t expecting to see so many sick, stray cats wandering around and hiding in the many abandoned buildings. Litter was everywhere and I ended up crying after spotting a dead cat in a pile of broken glass.

One of the many stray cats that nobody seems to be looking out for. This skinny little guy curled up under our chair.
One of the many stray cats that nobody seems to be looking out for. This skinny little guy curled up under our chair.

It was really sad to see the toll that Greece’s economic situation has taken on Corfu, its inhabitants, animals and buildings. It’s clear that it was once a utopia of sorts, with its beautiful and hilly island landscape, impressive stone fort, built-out harbor and clear blue waters. Hopefully their economy will recover soon and they will put in place a spay-and-neuter program to help the cats. Until then, I’m not sure I could bear the emotional burden of another visit to Corfu.

The reality of Corfu, Greece, post-financial crisis.
The reality of Corfu, Greece, post-financial crisis.

We stopped at a bar called Imabari, by the sea. Mike got into his swim trunks and took a swim while I video chatted with my parents on my phone. There were a few cute restaurants nearby with absolutely stunning views, but we opted to go back to the ship for dinner. After all, it’s uber-comfortable, the food is delicious and free (included in the cruise price), and we know what we’re getting onboard is clean and fresh.

Women tanning in Corfu
Women tanning in Corfu

Each day, before heading back to the shuttle bus, we stop at a local tourist shop and pick up a cute magnet with the city or country name on it. While onboard, we’ve made friends with another journalist couple our age (one of the five or so couples under 50 years old), and they collect magnets from every country they travel to together. We thought that was a charming idea.

Maybe later we’ll try afternoon tea at the Wintergarden, hit the gym, check out their Snow Grotto, and take a dip in their glass-backed infinity pool. I can’t wait!

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Hilary Rowland

A writer, artist, and designer since she was young enough to put pencil to paper, Hilary taught herself code and created Urbanette when she was a teenager. Currently, she lives in Monte Carlo, but spent the past decade living in NYC, still considers herself a New Yorker, and visits regularly. She's always traveling, looking for hot new topics, destinations, and life hacks to bring to Urbanette readers.

Reader Discussion: 52 Comments

  1. WOW! Fantastic! I’m jealous and I hope to have the same opportunity as yours. Wishing and hoping and thinking of my very first cruise trip!

    Reply
  2. People warned me about Corfu, said that we were going to hate it. But we love, love, loved it and wish we had booked more time there. Luckily we ignored the haters and went anyway, but we did let them influence how long we stayed. Each person has to experience it for themselves. Great article!

    Reply
  3. Ahh! So jealous! I visited several mediterranean countries when I was a kid and have always wanted to go back but have been put off by the idea that it would be so expensive and overrun with people! Hoping to visit next year as we go through Europe! 🙂

    Reply
  4. I love your review!! I wish I had come across this before I’ve been to Croatia. Fell in love with the Croatian sea and wanted to move there. The pictures you shared brought back some lovely memories from late may. Thank you!

    Reply
  5. Awesome article! Thanks for sharing. I was in Venice not long ago, and loved it! Lots of great food, interacting with the locals and no touristy places. Very authentic! 🙂

    Reply
  6. Your article brings back memories – I spent a few days in Venice about 7 years ago and was completely captivated by its unique setting. It’s especially magical at night. I’ve travelled in Greece and a few Greek Islands (Santorini and Crete) but not Corfu, so it was interesting to read your experience with Corfu. BTW, love the photos with your post!

    Reply

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