My Lavender-Scented Dream in Provence

I’d been waiting for this moment for years… This trip has been at the top of my bucket list for as long as I can remember. Finally, we were going to visit Provence. The land of endless lavender fields. A region filled with quaint towns at every turn. If it was possible, you could rename this region Perfection and it would fit like a glove. Driving from Lyon, as we started south on the road to Provence, I could hardly contain my excitement.

As we approached the Luberon region where we’d be staying, a sign on the highway highlighted that Châteauneuf du Pape was just a short drive off the highway. Despite my giddiness for reaching Provence, a pit stop in this famed wine region was the right call. As we drove curiously through the town, we noticed a biodynamic vineyard called Domaine De Beaurenard and stop for a quick tasting. After a few sips, I began to understand why wine drinkers around the globe go crazy for this stuff. We bought a couple of bottles and jumped back into the car to finish the last leg of our trip.

You don’t need signs to become fully aware that you’ve entered Provence. It sounds like a fib, but you can sense when your tires cross into the Luberon region. The air becomes sweet smelling. The color gets a bit more amber. I wasn’t dreaming it. My husband and our friends confirmed what I was experiencing. It felt magical, and I couldn’t wait to begin exploring…

One of the great things about Provence is that you have a plethora of amazing towns within a short drive from each other. After discovering over a dozen of them, I’ve listed the best of the best below (and their distance from our hotel):

Lourmarin (40 min drive): Listed as “one of the most beautiful villages in France”, Lourmarin is surrounded by vineyards, olive groves, and almond trees. If I could only live in one small town the rest of my life, this would be it! The village  is lively in the summer due to its numerous café terraces, restaurants and boutiques. In the village you will notice the beautiful Mediterranean architecture in its winding narrow streets, lovely old restored houses, and well shaded public squares where you can immerse yourself in the gentle Provençal ambience.

Sault (40 min drive): Situated on an old fortified village on the border of a great wooded plateau, Sault is a town that’s loaded with lavender! It’s wonderful to smell lavender everywhere you go while driving through town. The esthetic features of the village have not gone unnoticed, for Sault is one of six lucky sites in France chosen for protection by UNESCO due to the historic value and beauty of the buildings. The “Pays de Sault” (the region) was an ancient Comté, ruled by a count. In the 18th and 19th centuries Sault was the center of an important glass industry. Today the glass works are gone, but the weekly market (Wednesdays) has remained — since 1515!

Aix en Provence (1h 15min drive): If you’re looking to step outside the cozy feel of the Luberon region without heading too far back into reality, Aix en Provence is the perfect solution. Situated in southern Provence, close to the mediterranean, Aix has the look of a city with the feel of a town. Aix was formed in 3rd century BC(!), so you can only imagine how stunning it is. The center of Aix is the old town (vieille ville), ringed by a circle of boulevards and squares. It’s a small-enough area to explore by foot, but there’s way too much to see in one or two days. Aix-en-Provence is also full of fountains, which I loved.

Bonnieux (20 min drive): Regardless of the route you take to Bonnieux, you will see the church tower well before you arrive. The tower dominates the countryside and the surroundings of this magnificent village, which while inside gives some of the most sweeping views in all of Provence. There are some charming homes here that date back to the 16th century, serving as a reminder that Bonnieux was a wealthy town back when it belonged to the Vatican.

Lacoste (20 min drive): The famous château belonging to the Marquis de Sade is located in Lacoste. In 1771 the Marquis fled from Paris to escape the scandals created by his erotic writing and naughty behaviour. The village has charming narrow streets paved in beautiful white stone. I really enjoyed aimlessly wandering around the town and sitting at a charming café to escape the strong sun. Drinking a delicious local rosé is a pleasant way to pass the time. You will also come across beautiful old stone houses, some of which are being restored. This charming gem of a town is definitely worth the trip to escape the modern world and slink back to a time long before modern civilization.

Where We Stayed

During our time in Provence we decided to stay at the five star Relais & Châteaux resort, Le Phebus. Located in one of the most beautiful regions of France, Le Phebus sits nestled into the rolling hills between Joucas and Gordes.

The seven hectare property was originally purchased in the 90’s by Xavier Mathieu’s family, who currently operates the resort and Michelin starred restaurant. After some heavy renovations to the historical property, Le Phebus became one of the most refined and elegant establishments in the region. With only 29 rooms and 4 suites, this charming resort manages to preserve a feeling of seclusion and intimacy.

We tucked into the Grand Prestige suite, which is absolutely massive, and boasts a beautiful view of the rolling hills from its expansive terrace. Separated from the main property (2 min walk), you feel miles away from civilization. It checked all the boxes: a cozy king sized bed, high ceilings, a giant outdoor terrace where we can eat and lounge, a big comfy sofa and a large TV next to a fireplace so big you could sleep in it. I was in heaven! The walls are composed of beautifully carved white stone that adds warmth without sacrificing sophistication. It even had a charming fountain outside that sounded like a running stream. Simply put, it was heaven.

As excited as we were to be staying in such a beautiful setting, we were equally excited to try a tasting menu at restaurant Xavier Mathieu at Le Phebus, as we’d heard good things and knew we were in for something special. We chose to sit outside, with a view of the sun setting behind the rolling hills of Provence. I’ll start by saying that given the fact that we, and our friends, are vegan, we are always ever-so-slightly apprehensive about whether a chef is up to the task and will create something not only nutritionally balanced and filling, but also creative and delicious. But by the end of our first few courses, Xavier Mathieu had already cemented himself as one of the most creative chefs I’d ever come across.

Over the course of three hours, we were serenaded by a medley of delicious vegan flavors. We started with a wonderful gazpacho, followed by smoked artichokes with local grains. Then on to a cucumber tartare with rice vinegar which tasted unbelievable refreshing. The main was polenta with local spelt that was lightly fried, accompanied by mushrooms and sorrel. Dessert was cherries with almond milk and caramel. The flavors and textures blew my palate away. There were tastes of the sea (algae foam), wonderful aromas, and colors that excited me as much as the taste did. In the end, it was one of the most impressive meals I’ve ever had. This trip was only just beginning, and it was off to a delicious start!

After a long day of exploring, drinking delicious wine, and soaking up the sun, there’s nothing sweeter than slipping into the spa at Le Phebus. Sitting just off the main building, there are twenty different treatments awaiting your arrival. After our couples massage, we took a dip in the heated swimming pool and jacuzzi, then chilled and read a magazine in the relaxation room. As I sipped a delicious organic tea, trying to extend the zen as long as I could, I had one thought in my mind: how excited I was to have found Provence — my version of paradise.

I had incredibly high expectations coming into this trip. I was even a little fearful that I might be disappointed given my lifelong hunger for this place. Thankfully, Provence managed to exceed all of my wishes and has certainly earned it’s reputation as one of the most beautiful places in the world. Even now, sitting back in my office, I can close my eyes and vividly recall the sights, smells, and emotions that Provence bestowed on this trip. I’m guessing it won’t be long before I’m back in the lavender fields giving this one-of-a-kind region another spin…