On the tropical shores of the Indian state of Goa, it’s not uncommon to see locals pitching their wares as you sunbathe in the scorching heat. Men saunter by, flashing elephant-printed shawls and wraps, women trudge by pitching cool mango slices. Of all the salesmen and women on the beach, one woman in particular stands out.
The women, Jana, approaches my friend and I demurely. We’re wary, wondering what she’ll pull out of her bag, but she strikes up a conversation instead. Her charisma pulls us in instantly. She sits on the edge of my reclining sun chair, confidentially, like we’re old friends, and the three of us enthusiastically participate in a cultural exchange.
In another world, in another life, this woman would be a high-salaried saleswoman or a CEO. She has something that her fellow salesman do not: sociability, confidence, the ability to draw us in and make us want to buy what she’s selling. I don’t want any of the anklets, necklaces, or bracelets she lays out on the chair beside me. But that’s okay. I’m not buying those items; I’m buying her.
India is not a stranger to women entrepreneurship. Women-formed Self-Help Groups (SHGs) abound throughout the country. The SHGs are formed so that traditionally unbankable individuals can open a savings account with the combined funds of the group, and pull out loans. In some cases, the members (normally women) are able to use the loans to start their own enterprises. Some start tailoring shops or schools, others open snack stalls, and still others form their own beauty parlors. With the burdens of poverty in rural areas, and the restrictions on women abundant, fewer women than you might think use their loans to generate more income.
Even so, none of the SHG members I ever encountered had the knack for sales like Jana. Many of the women SHG members found themselves in positions where they could acquire loans and learn skills such as tailoring to earn their own income. However, they didn’t have the sales instinct or the marketing opportunities to make any real money. Jana on the other hand had instinct in abundance and she used the beaches of Goa as her marketing channel.
She tells us, seated at the edge of the lounge chair, that she’s from a remote village in the state of Karnataka. She comes to Goa for a few months out of the year, during the high tourist season, to pitch her wares and make some money for her family. Her husband is a stay-at-home father, taking care of their four children, including their one handicapped son.
Looking at Jana’s flat stomach through the open flap in her sari, I doubt whether she’s ever given birth to a child in her life. This could all be part of the pitch, and yet I’m still drawn in, wanting to fuel this bright spark.
I select the items I intend to buy and the haggling process begins. I offer a price and she gives me a disdainful look. Jana of Karnataka launches into a short-winded lecture on the virtues and rhythms of bartering: “No.” She says. “First I offer a price and then you bargain. That’s how this works.” She’s right. Of course she’s right. She’s an old pro, bartering with tourists on the sparkling shores of Goa for years. I’m the amateur and I had jumped the gun.
We begin again, her offering a ludicrous price, and me shaking my head and offering about half. We ping pong back and forth, settling on a price that is by all means still too high for the quality of her products. But again, it’s not the bracelets I want. I may not even wear them. I want to see her successful, I want to imagine her taking care of her potentially non-existent family. I want her to have what a woman of her background cannot possibly have but what she deserves; an office job on Madison Avenue, tailored power suits, a classroom where she can teach the impressive skills she knows, seemingly innately.
India is in every sense of the word a developing country. Their tourism, their business, their women’s rights are all growing with awkward, sometimes dizzying spurts. It is now more common for women to go to school and get jobs, and with the perpetuation of educated women, India will start seeing major shifts in women’s roles. We may one day soon see a time where women with Jana’s graceful skills at the bargaining table are nurtured and encouraged.
Until then, you can find Jana on the beaches of Goa from November to March, with a hustle that will make you swoon.
India really is a developing country, but it needs a little push from countries that are already developed.
It’s surprising that these women are even allowed to work.?
They need to be taught how to generate more income by going to other places. I think it’s impossible to generate a big income if you’re in a poor area. I don’t think anyone that’s already having a hard time feeding their family will choose to buy clothes or go to a beauty parlor on a daily basis. What these women need is a stable income, not the type of income that will fail them if by any chance that their goods didn’t sell well that day. I’m pretty sure everyone wants something like that so they’ll make an effort for it to happen.
It’s such a poor country and you can’t expect more from them. They’ll do anything to convince you to buy what they’re selling.
I can’t believe she sat on your chair though. If that was me, I’d be really surprised and scared. I know they’re not dangerous but it seems a little intrusive in my opinion.
I’ve visited poor countries and I swear, half of the time they’ve already memorized in their heads on what to tell you. Just in case you failed to notice as well, they only go after tourists who seem like they have a lot of money to dish out.
I agree, this is very rampant in touristy areas.
I was waiting for her to offer better opportunities to the woman. Since she said, “I bought her”. Well, what I’m trying to say is that we’re the privileged ones and it’s probably good if you gave her an advice on how to step up her marketing and sales game. Sometimes conversations like this can empower people and it can change their entire perspective on things. You never mentioned it in the article but I know that you’re a great person and you probably did have that conversation with her.
India is such a beautiful country. However, it can’t develop just because of tourism. Hopefully, they can adjust and grow accordingly.
I have horrible experiences with vendors like that. They sometimes force you to buying their wares and it gets a little tiring to listen to the same old stories.
Buying an overpriced item is just dumb. However! being business partners with that lady would be fruitful. She sells you the goods at a cheaper price, you sell it for a slightly higher price in the west part of the globe and profit! give her share and repeat process.