Face it! You really can’t avoid the sun. Summer, winter, cloudy or not, you’re getting exposed. What better way to protect yourself than with a good sunscreen — right??
Well, maybe not.
Dangerous Sunscreens
We all know that the sun is dangerous (after all – it causes the #1 most deadly cancer, and it’s responsible for about 80% of our premature aging), but did you know that most sunscreens are also dangerous? The Environmental Working Group did a study on sunscreens and found most to be either very ineffective or loaded with carcinogens (yes, that means that your actual sunscreen could cause you cancer!) Even titanium dioxide, which was previously thought to be safe, has recently been proven to cause cancer, especially when used in sprays or in nanoparticles. In fact, with nanoparticle technology becoming super common in sunscreens, these carcinogens can easily get into your bloodstream and wreak havoc on your cells. And that doesn’t even take into account all the other nasty chemicals found in these products!
Now that you know, I’m sure you can see why it’s more important than ever to make sure you’re wearing a non-toxic, non-nano sunscreen.
Fortunately, it’s simple to remember what’s safe; the only ingredient that is truly nontoxic and works as a sunscreen is non-nano zinc oxide. It’s a mineral that’s relatively expensive as an ingredient and looks white until you rub it in, which is why many companies don’t use it, or only use it in low quantities mixed with chemical sunscreens that are cheaper or quickly absorb into your skin (and bloodstream!) While chemical sunscreens are cheap to produce and easy to apply, the problem lies in that they aren’t effective against the type of rays that cause aging and cancer, and they are often carcinogenic to boot. Oh yeah, last-but-not-least, they’re also quickly killing the coral reef, which is home to 25% of underwater diversity.
If you want to learn more about all this, I found a great study done by the World Health Organization that’s packed with interesting info. Here’s a poignant quote: “A suntan may be cosmetically desirable, but in fact it is nothing but a sign that your skin has been damaged and has attempted to protect itself.”
Next up — Which sunscreens to buy, my better-than-sunscreen beauty trick, and something it’s crucial to understand:
The Safest Sunscreens
I’m not sure there’s anyone on Earth who enjoys applying or wearing sunscreen. However, rather than avoiding the sun, I found a great sun-protection alternative. Studies have shown that Red Raspberry Seed Oil has a SPF factor of about 30 and is the only oil to protect against both UVB and UVA rays. So I fill my palm with it every morning and rub it all over my face, neck, hands, and any other area that might be getting exposure. It absorbs quickly, doesn’t feel greasy, and leaves a slight healthy glow. It’s quickly become my favorite oil. This awesome oil is filled with antioxidants and essential fatty acids to keep your skin healthy while helping to fade with scars, sunspots, and acne. I don’t leave home without it! Just make sure that you’re buying the real thing, as some sneaky resellers may dilute it with a cheaper oil. Also, as with any oil, make sure to keep the container tightly sealed in a dark place, since oils go oxidize (lose some of their medicinal properties) when exposed to oxygen or light too many times.
When I’m traveling or otherwise spending a lot of time in direct sunlight, I first apply my oil, and then I layer a zinc oxide sunscreen overtop. My favorite safe, zinc-oxide-based sunscreens are Badger’s SPF30 lavender-scented sunscreen, their anti-bug sunscreen, and their rose facial sunscreen (I’m a sucker for anything rose-scented!), which are organic and has 100% healthy, pretty much edible ingredients. It absorbs without a lot of effort and smells great. Also, not only does lavender have a lovely scent, but has been found in studies to inhibit the generation of the type of free radical that causes much of the damage from UVA/UVB radiation. It also helps protect against cancerous changes—in one study, applying lavender oil reduced skin tumor incidence by 33 percent. (I add a few drops of lavender essential oil to my Red Raspberry Seed Oil, too!)
Another great choice is Babo’s zinc oxide sunscreen lotion, portable sunscreen stick, tinted lip balm (which I also use as blush!), and spray sunscreens. We checked all the ingredients one-by-one, and they are all super-safe. When looking for sunscreen, make sure to read the label carefully. You should recognize the majority (or, better yet, all) of the ingredients in your sunscreen.
As with all skin care, if you can’t read it, or you can’t eat it, you shouldn’t wear it. Period.
Here are some more tips:
Important to Understand
And here’s the part that took me a while to completely understand: There are two types of sun rays — UVA and UVB. UVB causes sunburns and cancer, while UVA penetrates deeper into the skin causing aging. Clouds and clothing may block the sunburn-causing UVB rays, but they don’t block UVA — the deep-penetrating kind that cause aging (and cancer). UVA rays create ambient light too — so when you’re sitting at your desk near a window, you’re still getting exposure to aging rays. That’s why it’s important to wear sunscreen under clothing and indoors, too. A pain, I know! I hate wearing the stuff too, but it’s better than looking old fast or getting cancer — right!?
What You’re Risking
The body’s first line of defense against the harmful elements of the environment is the skin. We often downplay the value of skin care as purely aesthetic, but we must understand that the failure to take proper care of our skin will not only make us look old, it can also make us sick. In fact, 1 in 5 people will develop skin cancer at some point in their life and 1 in 55 will be melanoma — the deadliest cancer. Not to mention, studies show that sun rays weaken the immune system and leave us vulnerable for a whole host of health issues.
According to a study by the American Academy of Dermatology, melanoma is the most common cancer for the age bracket of 25 to 29 years old. In fact, melanoma increases faster on 15 to 29 year old women than men. The study also showed that 40 percent, especially those under 30 years old, get their tans mostly from using tanning beds and frequent time in the sun.
“Ultimately, seeking to change the color of your skin is self-defeating because exposure to ultraviolet radiation – either through tanning beds or by seeking the sun – can lead to wrinkles, prematurely aging skin and even a diagnosis of skin cancer,” says board-certified dermatologist Zoe D. Draelos, MD, FAAD.
Next up — One of NYC’s top dermatologists breaks it all down for us:
An Expert Shares Her Tips
Urbanette held a brief interview with Dr Marina Peredo, founder of the Marina Peredo, MD, PC Dermatology and Spatique Medical Spa in Smithtown, New York. Marina, who has an incredibly impressive resume, told us about skin cancer, common skincare problems, and how to protect ourselves.
Urbanette Magazine (Hilary): What are the most common skin problems that often lead to skin cancer? What are the easiest and most basic ways to prevent these problems?
Dr. Marina Peredo: Actinic Keratosis is a rough dry scaly patch or growth that forms on the skin. These usually form when the skin is badly damaged from ultraviolet rays (UV rays). AK’s may turn into a type of skin cancer called squamous cell carcinoma, or they can run the risk of getting other types of skin cancer. This condition can be prevented by wearing a zinc oxide sunscreen daily and being seen by a board-certified dermatologist on a regular basis.
Urbanette: What increases our risk for this?
Marina: Patients who have multiple moles, (dysplastic nevus syndrome), patients with type-one skin type (never tans, always burns), patients who use tanning salons and patients who had several blistering sunburns before age 18 are all at much higher risk for skin cancer.
“Ways to prevent aging and skin cancer include use zinc oxide sunblock, avoid tanning beds and have your skin checked by a dermatologist.”
Urbanette: Yikes! That sounds like me! The sun turns my skin from white to red (usually with blisters) then back to white. How do you know you already have early stages of skin cancer; how do you detect it?
Marina: Recognition of changes in the skin is the best way to detect early melanoma. Follow the ABCDE rule (Asymmetry of a mole, Border irregularity of a mole, Color is not uniform, Diameter or change in size, Evolving of a mole that looks different from the rest). If patient sees any of the above, have it checked right away.
Urbanette: How often do I have to apply sunblock? What SPF should I use?
Marina: Make sure to use the right amount of sunblock — a shot glass full for each application. Apply sunscreen to dry skin 15 minutes before going outdoors every day. When outdoors, reapply every 30 minutes. I recommend SPF 15 or 30. Always reapply after swimming or sweating. The sun emits harmful UV rays year round, plus you have to look out for secondary sun exposure, so sunscreen needs to be applied even when it snows or when it’s cloudy. Wearing protective clothing (like Coolibar) helps and always avoid the sun between the hours of 11am to 3pm.
Urbanette: What is secondary sun exposure, and can it really hurt me?
Marina: Secondary sun exposure is the UV rays your skin is exposed to when sitting near a window on the sunny day, in a car, from a reflection on water, and even on a cloudy day. And yes, while you may not get burned, it’s still rays hitting your skin, so you still need to wear sunscreen even when you’re not directly exposed.
Urbanette: How do you teach your patients about sun protection and what advice do you give them?
Marina: Pictures tell a thousand words and are a useful tool when trying to show my patients what can happen if they do not take precautions when out in the sun. I always encourage all of my patients, teens included, to wear a zinc oxide sunscreen every day, wear sun protective clothing, avoid tanning beds, and get a spray tan or use self-tanner if you really want color.
Really, the best and simplest advice I could give you is simply to avoid the sun between the hours of 11 a.m. and 3 p.m.
Finally!……Someone who cuts through the hype and gives sensible and well-researched advice. This is great information concisely and well written.This is very helpful. Thank you
I found over the years that I am highly allergic to PABA and I will only use physical sunblock such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. I’ve been avoiding chemical suncreen for decades. It is NOT good for your skin. Thankfully, I am sensitive to chemicals so my body tells me what to stay away from.
This is a very insightful article. Thanks for all your very informative newsletters. I read them with great interest. Regarding sunscreens, I read somewhere “you will want to use a sunscreen product that contains the active ingredients of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.” I understood that titanium dioxide is to be avoided in vitamin supplements. Does this not apply to sunscreen lotions?
I have never use suncreens, and never will! Coconut oil works wonders and helps you body heal if you do accidentally sunburn. Avoid soaps when you shower for a few days (just rinse and maybe use a mild soap on your underarms) and your body heals itself from a sunburn much better. I fell asleep out in the noon sun in Hawaii (oops) and applied coconut oil for the next few days. Lobster the first day, lightly pink the second day and none of the pain I remember. I was burnt enough that you could see the bow pattern on my back. I eventually had a little peeling on my shoulders but not the kind of thing I remember happening when I was a kid.
Even Doctors and Medical professionals seem to follow the old dogma about avoiding the sun. Or they say that only momentary exposure of a couple minutes a day is enough. Bad sunburns are dangerous but mild reddening of the skin can be cured overnight with the application of Aloe vera. The raw leaves of course are the best
what about a sunscreen that protects against UVA rays only???? All I see is both or only UVB protection. I understand if you cant get a tan at all, if you’re pasty white or something. But if UVB is so good why cant they make it to filter out the other? I’d go for that. – of course a natural lotion, not a chemical concoction.
I’m trying to mix my own homemade sunscreen for myself, and I’m really on the fence about adding zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. I burn very easily and I’m wondering if there is a more natural alternative. Will the natural SPF in oils like coconut, olive, or sesame seed etc..work on their own
I have lived in the Southern California Mojave Desert my entire life…
As a child, I played outdoors, rode and cared for my horse and other pets, and later – intentionally tanned – all in the hottest part of summer… with NO sunscreen! I still tan outdoors, I refuse to use sunscreen, have never “fake-baked”…and am still told I look much younger than my age. Not only that, but I find that laying out and relaxing in the sun helps impart a sense of wellbeing and alleviates much of my fibromyalgia-like pain.
Thanks to a coworker, I now also take D3, and use coconut oil as a supplement, and have started eliminating all artificial sweeteners, processed foods, and other junk from my diet. I am still hypothyroid, and overweight, but I’m working on it.
A little hint for other sun lovers… after time in the sun, when I’m feeling a little dry and tight around the eyes, I dab on some raw organic virgin coconut oil. It’s not just good for your insides! Try it on your cuticles, hair, knees and elbows, etc.
Gisele Bundchen says she avoids the afternoon sun which means she could be deficient in vitamin D because there is less UVB when the sun is low.
I use the physical sunscreen on my face and wear a hat or hood when I’m out for a significant peroid of time. I use my arms and legs to get my vitamin D when my UV index meter reads at least 3 for maybe half an hour and cover up after. This way, the UVA exposure is minimized and the integrity of the vitamin D in the sebum is protected. The main concern for me is skin damage.
The way the UV index is used can be quite deceiving because it is based on the erythema spectrum which quite closely correlates with vitamin D production but does not account for UVA exposure.
Do tanning oils actually magnify UV exposure? People claim it helps increase the vitamin D production and scavenges free radicals formed during sunbathing. I bought the tanning oil with sunflower, almond oils, cocoa butter etc and would tan with it.
Oh my!! I have been stressed about this for a while and thinking about harmful products. I have to agree that not all sunscreens are created equal and in many cases some are harmful and not helpful. Your article gives me some sense of peace & I plan on keeping it as a reminder. Big sigh of relief. Thank you so much Hilary for this!!