My Viking Cruise: Hanging in the Mediterranean

#HilaryRowland

Join me as I travel to Venice, Croatia and Corfu on a Viking Cruise of the Mediterranean Sea.

If you caught my last article, you know all about the Viking Cruise that I’m currently on. If you missed it, you can check it out here.

Venice
Venice

On our first night, shortly after getting settled in our stateroom (that’s what they call the rooms on a cruise ship) and having a room service meal on our balcony, we walked into town and explored the streets of Venice. The city has a lovely feel in the evening, particularly when you gaze upward through the quaint narrow walkways and see the stars twinkling above you.

Our stateroom, on our first night (before we cluttered it up)
Our stateroom, on our first night (before we cluttered it up)

After our two-hour stroll, we arrived back on the boat to find some of our fellow shipmates partying to a great band in the Torshavn lounge, while others were relaxing by the bar in the Explorer’s Lounge, listening to a wonderful pianist.

viking-cruise-mediterranea-sean3

The following morning, we got shuttled into town with about 50 other passengers, and our tour took us through some of the more touristy areas of Venice. We used our wireless headsets to hear the guide, which was convenient, since we opted to duck into the shade as often as possible.

During the tour, I learned that Venice was built on top of 117 small, marsh-like islands. So every time you cross a bridge in Venice, you’re stepping onto another island. Amazingly, the building of Venice are held up using wood. Because there wasn’t any oxygen in the thick muck that Venice is built on, when they stuck trees into it they petrified and became very strong. The buildings are mostly built using clay bricks and timber, and were designed to be flexible as the ground shifted. So while the buildings may lean, they will never fall. Venice was the first republic in Europe (France was the second, after the French Revolution).

Lunch at Do Leoni, in Venice
Lunch at Do Leoni, in Venice

After the tour, we treated ourselves to lunch at a Relais & Chateaux restaurant right on the water, called Do Leoni. Finding the Viking water taxi after lunch was simple, as there were Viking reps in red all over the place. When we got back to the Viking Sea ship, we went to the Explorer’s Lounge on the front upper deck (one of the many lounges, with live classical music, to choose from) and ordered a Bergen’s Kaffe.

In the following days we visited Split and Dubrovnik, in Croatia. I had no idea what to expect when we arrived in Croatia. When we woke and pulled back the drapes to our private balcony, I was shocked by the incredible beauty of the town and surrounding mountains. The towns are filled with history and, although crowded with tourists, were super charming.

Swimming in Croatia
Swimming in Croatia

We ducked away from the crowds and found a few off-path nooks (usually through a small tunnel in the side of a stone city wall) where we could hang out on the side of a rocky cliff and get a drink, lunch, and swim in the crystal-blue waters.

The view from a very cool bar and restaurant in Dubrovnik called 360
The view from a very cool bar and restaurant in Dubrovnik called 360

There are a lot of great restaurants to try out in Split and Dubrovnik. We especially loved one in Split called O’Zlata (which means “of gold” in Croatian), which is housed in what was the 15thC royal residence of Roman emperor Diocletian. We sat in the courtyard, but the interior is equally as charming and they had lots of healthy vegan options made from fresh local ingredients, including smoothies and fresh squeezed juices. If you’re staying overnight in Dubrovnik, make sure to have dinner at 360 Restaurant, which is super romantic and has incredible –you guessed it– 360-degree views.

Getting some fresh juice in Dubrovnik, Croatia
Getting some fresh juice at a stand in Dubrovnik, Croatia

Yesterday we stopped in Corfu, Greece. I was expecting the white buildings I’ve seen in photos of islands like Mykonos, but the architecture in Corfu reminded me of the Caribbean and wasn’t at all what I expected. All of the main streets in the downtown area were packed with tourist stalls selling cheap jewelry, sun hats and trinkets. It felt like a shopping maze reminiscent of Marrakesh’s souks.

Me, in the middle of Corfu's shopping maze...
Me, in the middle of Corfu’s shopping maze…

I also wasn’t expecting to see so many sick, stray cats wandering around and hiding in the many abandoned buildings. Litter was everywhere and I ended up crying after spotting a dead cat in a pile of broken glass.

One of the many stray cats that nobody seems to be looking out for. This skinny little guy curled up under our chair.
One of the many stray cats that nobody seems to be looking out for. This skinny little guy curled up under our chair.

It was really sad to see the toll that Greece’s economic situation has taken on Corfu, its inhabitants, animals and buildings. It’s clear that it was once a utopia of sorts, with its beautiful and hilly island landscape, impressive stone fort, built-out harbor and clear blue waters. Hopefully their economy will recover soon and they will put in place a spay-and-neuter program to help the cats. Until then, I’m not sure I could bear the emotional burden of another visit to Corfu.

The reality of Corfu, Greece, post-financial crisis.
The reality of Corfu, Greece, post-financial crisis.

We stopped at a bar called Imabari, by the sea. Mike got into his swim trunks and took a swim while I video chatted with my parents on my phone. There were a few cute restaurants nearby with absolutely stunning views, but we opted to go back to the ship for dinner. After all, it’s uber-comfortable, the food is delicious and free (included in the cruise price), and we know what we’re getting onboard is clean and fresh.

Women tanning in Corfu
Women tanning in Corfu

Each day, before heading back to the shuttle bus, we stop at a local tourist shop and pick up a cute magnet with the city or country name on it. While onboard, we’ve made friends with another journalist couple our age (one of the five or so couples under 50 years old), and they collect magnets from every country they travel to together. We thought that was a charming idea.

Maybe later we’ll try afternoon tea at the Wintergarden, hit the gym, check out their Snow Grotto, and take a dip in their glass-backed infinity pool. I can’t wait!

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Hilary Rowland

A writer, artist, and designer since she was young enough to put pencil to paper, Hilary taught herself code and created Urbanette when she was a teenager. Currently, she lives in Monte Carlo, but spent the past decade living in NYC, still considers herself a New Yorker, and visits regularly. She's always traveling, looking for hot new topics, destinations, and life hacks to bring to Urbanette readers.

Reader Discussion: 52 Comments

  1. Thanks Hilary, for this great article. It sure put a smile on my face stuck here in my office on a boring wednesday… and Croatia of all places! Ever since I was a child I dreamt of goinig there and I finally did in 2010. I’ll never forget it, it was magical. Some of your pictures are almost identical to the ones I took. Enjoy the rest of your cruise.

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  2. I have to admit I am one of the few Americans who is not remotely interested in Venice. I apologize for that. I do have to say I enjoyed reading your post, but, it still did not convince me to put Venice on my bucket list. I suppose I have a greater desire to see other parts of Italy more than Venice. I am glad you had a memorable time though and shared it with us. I’ll be sure to tell others about your experience if anyone asks. 🙂

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  3. No NO NOO!!!!

    Sorry to start like this but I just couldn’t help it! I’ll explain though, don’t get the wrong idea…

    I found your blog almost a year ago, by pure chance (or should I say by pure luck?) and fell in love with it immediately (I love travelling and I love the way you write). Seriously, I admire you and all I could think the first time that I read one of your articles was “She’s really funny, she’s exactly the kind of person that I would like to travel with, it would be great to meet her, …”

    Then in February I moved country and at first I really didn’t have the time to check your blog, and after a while I just forgot, until now…

    You see, not only I’m from Greece, I’m from Corfu!!! And damn! you came to Corfu, just right when I wasn’t there!!! I just wish I had been there, I would have loved to meet you. But I’m glad you liked Corfu!

    Well, maybe one day… In the meantime good luck with everything, I wish you the best!

    Reply
  4. I never had Croatia on my radar, but with you (great photos by the way) and other travel bloggers writing about it, I am going to try and check it out next year! It looks beautiful. Safe Travels !!!

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  5. I’ve never been to Italy, though it is certainly on my list. But after seeing this post it’s definitely bumped up a few spots closer to my “next destination”. I can’t get over how incredible the first picture looks…

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  6. Hey there! I love this post- this trip looks like an absolute dream! My mom and I have been trying to plan a girls cruise to Italy for a while now so your destinations gave me some new ideas! Lovely pictures ?

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  7. I’m dying to go back to Croatia! I was there in 2006 and it also wasn’t touristy at all… but then again it was the off season. I was in Split, Dubrovnik, and some National Park whose name I can’t remember. One of the best travel experiences yet though… we had an absolute blast! Next time I’ll definitely have to make it to Hvar, Zagreb, and the lakes! Your pictures are beautiful ?

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  8. Hi!

    I was in Italy for the first time this past May. For my first trip we explored Tuscany, Venice, and Rome. Unfortunately it can be so hard on a tight budget. It seems like you go back to italy again and again, which is great! Thanks for the photos!

    Reply
  9. I visited Venice last year, and if I had to sum it up in one word, I would choose “overwhelming.” It’s such a sprawling, imposing city, and somewhat surprising in it’s no-nonsense hustle-and-bustle if you’ve discovered other parts of Italy first.

    While I prefer quieter parts of Northern Italy (esp. Trentino-Alto Adige!), there are beautiful sections of Venice and your photos highlight that.

    Reply

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