A Guide to Le Marais, Paris

Hey, I want to tell you a secret about Paris. But before I do, just know this secret involves real life magic. And castles. And gargoyles. It involves gothic charm, haunted mansions, and seductive art. It’s a secret that dates back thousands of years. Before Chanel. Before the Eiffel Tower. And before the beautifully dark Mona Lisa. It’s a secret that hypnotized Napoleon. Hypnotized Leonardo Davinci. And hypnotized me. But the question is: do you want to be hypnotized by this secret? Are you ready to allow it to tug at your heart and whisper into your ear, as it has so many others? Then keep reading.

As I arrived in Paris recently on a desperately needed she-cation, this secret kept teasing me, kept haunting me, “Hilary, you’ve been to Paris before, but why haven’t you come to see me? I’ve been waiting a very long time.”

“I know, I know,” I kept insisting, feeling guilty and giddy with anticipation as I peered out the window of my Uber on the way to my posh designer hotel.

Though I was full of anxious suspense, when I saw my boutique hotel for the first time I could no longer focus just on the secret that brought me there; all I could see was jaw-dropping beauty everywhere. Butterflies suddenly rushed into my stomach. The peach fuzz hair on the back of my neck immediately stood at attention. This is why they call Paris the “City of Lights,” I thought. It was no longer just a literal city of lights; this place became a symbol for expressing the highest form of beauty: namely, that light is love, and that love is any kind of beauty created from your heart. When I got to my hotel, I stepped out of reality and into a place created from somebody’s heart. And I fell love.

STAY

The renovated Hotel Pavillon de la Reine was architected by a mastermind craftsman 400 years ago, with the same kind of skill and fierce obsession France’s most famous artist, Picasso, was known for. By the way, Picasso created many of his works near this place, so go explore around to get some behind-the-scene stories about this genius.

The Pavilion itself, though, is just like a work of Picasso’s art, made with diligence and precision. It is covered with ivy. Everywhere. Beautiful ivy jutting in and out of the building, wrapping itself around the delicately laid brickwork as if it was an extra layer of protective skin. I thought, this is what a hotel should be.

But little did I know that this place wasn’t always a hotel. In fact, it was built and named for the Queen of Austria, Anne, France’s King Louis VIII’s mysterious child bride turn powerhouse. What conversations were had here, I wondered? What decisions did this powerful woman make that affected the lives of millions? What secrets did she keep and why? My hubby always told me I was a queen, but now I really felt like it — like a powerful she-hero surrounded by the trappings of nobility.

I was staying in the same place that housed one of history’s most fabulous women, an ultra-luxe hideaway known as much for its glam amenities as for its super cozy layout. While there, I came to this inescapable conclusion: that at least once in her life, every modern woman should stay in a palace made for a queen — it will remind you how beautiful, perfect and special you truly are.

As if the hotelier’s knew this, I arrived to a suite filled with goodies. How they could have known that my favorite cookie is a French Macaron, I don’t know, but the staff at Hotel Pavillon de la Reine seemed to read my mind throughout our stay.

Part of what makes this place so unique isn’t just the royal hotel itself, as charming and spectacular as it is. What makes this place special is the DNA that surrounds the hotel as well. And in this case, it is the famed Le Marais district, Paris’s witty and urbane 4th arrondissement nestled between the medieval Place des Vosges and ultra-modern Centre Pompidou, the heart of Paris’s cultural life. In other words, going to the Le Marais is like being simultaneously  immersed in the most fascinating parts of history and the most fun parts of modern life.

The Place des Vosges is 1,000 years old, bordered by 36 exquisite buildings, and is structured like a lusciously green city square, having previously been home to Paris’s sports tournaments, parades, and duels (much like the Roman Coliseum, but preserved for its architecture and beauty). It is one of the only pre-world war, pre-revolutionary Medieval regions still standing in Europe. That’s right. It’s a place that has never been destroyed by the hubris or hatred of man.  My great, great, great, great, great, great, great grandma could have lived there. Yours could have, too. Or your friend’s grandma.

But the point is, when you visit the Place de Vosges and the Le Marais areas –and you should add them to your must see list, as I promise you it will be one of the best experiences of your life– they will seduce you with history and secrets. Prepare to be teased by breathtaking gothic architecture, avant-garde art, and exclusive local food and shopping, which are all second to none.

SEE

Just steps from the Hotel Pavillon de la Reine is the stunning and ornate 200 year old Victor Hugo Museum, which houses where the author of the Hunchback of Notre Dame and Les Miserables lived, wrote, and died.

As you exit the wonderfully-designed Museum and start to stroll the streets of this part of the City, you will notice something very odd: that, unlike the rest of Paris with its oversized large roads and grand buildings, the sidewalks in this district are narrow; the streets are humble; and its “feel” is not modern Parisian per se. Instead, you’ll walk and walk and get lost on every street corner, wanting to explore every little neighborhood’s fun and peculiar mysteries. You’ll notice that this is the classic Paris that so many fall in love with.

As you continue to glide through the 4th, you’ll see the best examples of Baroque architecture, a sophisticated throwback to France’s once prominent aristocracy who called Le Marais home. And, by the way, this is why they call the 4th the prettiest part of Paris, which is the prettiest city in the world: the architecture here is made with love and class and sass. Some real head-turners. These buildings are homes, museums of magic, and even former castles whose grand entrances are overlooked by ghoulish gargoyles (some of which are rumored to be haunted).

If you enter any of them, you’ll see deliciously dangerous exposed beams, crooked staircases only a supermodel could fit through, and portes cocheres (entrances to secret courtyards and gardens). You’ll even notice an homage to one of Le Marais’s former fortresses, the famed Bastille Castle that caused the French Revolution. You’ll keep thinking to yourself, it’s so amazing how the beauty of architecture can often mask and hide a chillingly haunted past–and keep secrets maintained for centuries.

SHOP

And, of course, as you’re getting lost in the 4th’s architecture, you will also be seduced by all of the glam shops that line its streets. But these aren’t your typical “tourist shops.”  These aren’t the “known shops” the media often talks about. These are shops where you will find exclusive posh designer brands available only in Paris. Real. Raw. And only known by “word of mouth.”

Shops like Vintage Bar (yes, a former bar converted to a super upscale fashion outlet that still sometimes operates like a bar); Les Vignoles (with Parisian inspired off-beat designer clothes and accessories); Les Mille Feuilles (a shop filled with gorgeous oddities and home accessories, found only in Japan and Paris); Luka Luna (for more eclectic and interesting home accessories); and I Love My Blender (a delightful bookstore and art shop that ironically DOES NOT serve smoothies). And on and on. These are some of Paris’s best-known secrets, and you’ll want to indulge in them when you visit.

But you’ll also find the streets lined with art galleries and museums where not only can you buy amazing paintings but often also speak with the modern day Picasso’s who are creating the next generation of great art. Check out the Galerie Marian Goodman (one of the most influential art galleries of the 20th Century, a real eye-popper); Galerie Perrotin in a 17th century hotel (Emmanuel Perrotin, the gallery’s owner, is an icon of Paris contemporary art scene and a very deep soul); the Modus Art Gallery, which features paintings, sculptures, and a diverse mix of mediums that is bound to capture your fancy–and a lot your wallet if you’re not careful); and the Centre Pompidou, a controversial (many Parisians don’t like its industrial exterior) high-tech multiplex housing hundreds of art exhibitions (and libraries and restaurants, among other things) that will dazzle you with its over-the-top and expressive personality.

I can guarantee you won’t be bored venturing into any of these shops or art enclaves, and just could walk away with your dream piece — and a friendship with an artist seducing the world with their creativity.

EAT

And finally, after all of this walking and shopping, you’ll be exhausted and will want to grab something from one of Paris’s many famed restaurants. I’d highly recommend Popelini, which serves profiteroles with creamy centers and lemon, caramel, and pistachios (these mouth-watering snacks are the craze overtaking macaroons and cupcakes as Paris’s new hot-thing that you simply must try). Also be sure to hit up Caffe Boboli, a scrumptious vegan delight, Chez Janou, a local favorite with great vegan pasta, and the Au Bourguignon du Marais for a classic French dinner, replete with escargot and a fabulous red wine that will leave you saying “merci bien.”

If one thing is for sure, your trip to the Le Marais will be one of the most fun, thought-provoking, and deeply moving experiences of your life. At least it was for me. Staying in a royal palace, exploring architecture and history that has shaped our world (even to today), and getting lost in museums, restaurants, and galleries is an unforgettable experience I will always treasure from my visit. I’ll also always treasure my discovery of the 4th’s “secret” I was telling you about. What is it, you might ask? I can’t tell you. You’ll have to go and find out for yourself.